TRAMPS? WHY DON’T WE TARGET ZARA?
Worried about kids and trampy clothes?
Fair enough.
But spare a thought for the kids that help produce your kid’s clothes…
Five million children. That’s the number of children the International Labour Organization (ILO) estimates is living in forced labour around the world.
Forced labour is not just children working – forced labour involves any work or service which someone is made to do through coercion. It is a form of modern day slavery. Forced labour can be committed by individuals but it can unfortunately also be committed by Governments.
Every year, the Uzbec cotton harvest begins in September – just as kids in that country are supposed to be going back to school.
Anti-Slavery International, Human Rights Watch, and other heavy-weight defenders of human rights have over a number of years, documented clear cases of children being taken out of school and literally forced to pick cotton to help the Uzbec government meet annual targets.
This is forced labour of children.
Uzbekistan is the sixth largest producer of cotton globally.With the exception of gold, cotton is produced with child or forced labour in more countries than any other commodity in the global supply chain, according to the US Department of State.
That cotton makes its way into the supply chains of well-known brands and onto the backs of Australian consumers.
The Uzbec government officially banned the use of child labour in the cotton harvest in 2008. But as with any law, a law is just a piece of paper without implementation. Implementation requires motivation.
This is where consumer-power comes in.
Fashion retailers want you to buy their clothes. We want our clothes to be affordable but surely not at any price. Companies respond to public pressure – it is simple economics.
In 2011, sixty leading companies signed a pledge to do whatever they can, to ensure that Uzbec cotton does not make its way into their clothing production.
These companies have committed essentially, to boycott Uzbec cotton until the International Labour Organisation verifies that forced labour of children has been eliminated from the annual cotton pick.
To date, the Uzbec government has refused to let the International Labour Organisation inspectors in.Unfortunately not all companies are taking part in this action, which greatly weakens the market forces being brought to bear on the Uzbec government.
Whether they sign the Code or take other action, practical steps are what counts.
For example, Target Australia has not signed the pledge but it has a strong ethical sourcing code to ensure that its products are not sourced from forced or child labour.
Target Australia has also publicly stated that it does not source any private brand products from Uzbekistan and to the best of their knowledge, cotton from Uzbekistan is not used in goods produced for Target Australia in other countries.
So while you may not like Target’s fashion sensibilities, they are at least taking a stand on this important issue. The same cannot be said for all major fashion retailers.
For example, Zara has repeatedly refused to sign the pledge, despite information suggesting that Uzbec cotton is part of their supply chain.
In the last 24 hours, Walk Free – a new global movement committed to ending all forms of modern day slavery - has added its voice to the call on Zara to sign onto the cotton campaign.
You can sign the petition here.
So when you are thinking about what to wear today, spare a thought for the kids – the ones in Uzbec cotton fields.
*Fiona David is the Executive Director of Global Research for Walk Free
24 Responses to this article
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Sam August 16, 2012
Sorry, one minor thing: Target Corporation is in no way linked with Target Australia.
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rache August 16, 2012
Sam, how does that work? Please explain.
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Sam August 20, 2012
The Myer Corporation bought the rights to the name in the ’70s, and that’s the first and last time the US and Australian Targets had anything to with one another.
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Kylie @ Sunshine Coast Food August 16, 2012
Sometimes the developed world gets it wrong on issues like this and I am not saying this is one of those times. However, bear in mind that about 15 years ago the developed world exerted a strongly supported ban on purchasing carpets/rugs made by child labour.
So the carpetmaking families of the developing world suffered a dramatic drop in sales…and in swooped the child sex traffickers who offered “jobs” to the children of these now even more impoverished families, abducted them and sold them into sex slavery in very large numbers.
Sometimes we do not understand how a family in the developing world may rely on the labour of its children alongside the parents, to keep that very family together.
It’s not ideal, but it’s probably better than child sex slavery…Just sayin’.
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kid August 16, 2012
Every time I see those KMart ads with hordes of gleeful “mums” squeeing over how cheap everything is, I think of the mums just like them, and kids too, who slave away for next to nothing to make those cheap products. Those products are cheap because those making them are little better than slaves.
To me, those ads are some of the most offensive on our screens.
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The Huntress August 16, 2012
Me too, kid. I get chastised by my family and friends for only buying “expensive” clothes. My clothes are not expensive, not when I do everything in my power to ensure no–one was exploited in the process. Not saying my wardrobe would be completely free of any attrocities, but I can guarantee that $6 t-shirt in the advert has had a dark, dark origin.
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Carlie Ballard August 16, 2012
The childlabour is one very important issue here, the other is the effects of the chemicals used in conventional cotton farming. The cause it has on the degradation on the land. It’s completely unsustainable. However it also causes huge farmer debt which leads to farmer suicide at breathtaking rates. And this is not taking into account the health problems pesticides cause all the people (including the children) picking the cotton, which may not be apparent until years down the track.
FAST CHEAP FASHION is completely unsustainable. It’s about creating awareness to people and helping them make a connection between their CHEAP $9 KMart jeans and what the consequences are to get them to the consumer for this price. Someone ultimately pays. -
Jules August 16, 2012
Correct, Target Corporation licenses it’s logo and name to Wesfarmers, who are the parent company of Target Australia, other than that there is no legal and commercial link between Target Corporation and Target Australia. Unfortunately, this makes the headline to this article and the premise that we shouldn’t target “Target” moot.
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FerrylBerrryl August 16, 2012
The Hoopla has really come out in defence of Target. Is there a financial relationship here? Does Westfarmers purchase advertising from the Hoopla.
On topic, fair point re: child labour however excuse me if I don’t give Westfarmers a medal for like, not blatantly violating really basic human rights.
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Tess August 16, 2012
I wondered the same thing, FerrylBerryl. I really hope not.
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Wendy Harmer August 16, 2012
There is absolutely NO connection between The Hoopla, Target or Wesfarmers… None.
I saw this post re: Zara from Fiona via social media and asked her to write for us. I thought it made for a very different look at what we buy.
I appreciate that it is an ethical maze that we all find difficult to negotiate.
I also know that one needs information to form a moral framework for one’s actions.
This is why this piece is here.-
Tess August 16, 2012
Thanks for the response, Wendy. Good to hear. I can keep on loving The Hoopla.
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Sharon Ellam August 16, 2012
Ok…now I’m tired. This is the second Hoopla of the day I’ve taken the time to digest. Two very different, but very similar issues of importance – in my mind, those of blind injustice & ignorance.
Both streams of comment have proven to be a maze of digressing steams, some of which are obviously individual soapboxes for people. At the end of the day, I learnt about the situation with Uzbec cotton, which no doubt mirrors other countries where the value of individuals is low. Was I changed or influenced in any way? No. Did I see anyone who was able to seriously & objectively stay to topic for long? No. So the outcomes of today, in my mind, are that a few people got cranky about a few things before they probably caught the train home from work & became distracted in the normal routines.
Is there a way to raise consciousness that can survive the daily grind? I don’t know. But what I do know from my extensive community work & volunteering is that positive actions fuel positive change. Negativity & what Aussies refer to as ‘shit stirring’ make people turn off. And after a while, all the shit starts to look the same. There’s a cranky revolution happening in the public sphere right now. The media love it & the nightly news is full of it.
My challenge to others is: Find a way to effect REAL change by building on what works already. That is, how can you achieve POSITIVE ACTION? Maybe a CHANGE LOVE-IN might survive a night’s sleep.-
Calloway Luddington August 17, 2012
Well said Sharon. A calm voice among the dais-thumping hysteria.
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Fiona David August 16, 2012
Good point about the difference between Target Corporation and Target Australia. Thanks for picking that up.
I’ve looked into this further.
Target Corporation has signed the cotton pledge (as per the link on this site). They are the US “Target”.
Target Australia – which I think takes the licensed name from Target US – is separately owned. I am not sure if they are covered by the US Target policies.
However, since getting Sam’s post, I did some background checking with colleagues at Stop the Traffikk coalition.
They wrote to Target Australia about the Uzbec cotton issue and got two responses (in November last year then February 2012).
In their letter, Target Australia noted they have their ethical sourcing code – check it out here:
http://www.target.com.au/html/aboutus/ethicalsourcing.htm
They also stated that they do not source any private brand products from Uzbekistan and to the best of their knowledge, cotton from Uzbekistan is not used in goods produced for Target Australia in other countries.
Here is what Stop the Traffik has to say on ethical sourcing in Australia more broadly:
“In Australia, the Just Group (peteralexander, Jacqui E. Just Jeans, JayJays, Portmans, Smiggle), Kmart, Target, Cotton On, the ANZ Bank and Pacific Brands have all taken steps to exclude Uzbekistan cotton from their supply chains until the government of Uzbekistan ends the use of forced child labour in the harvesting of the cotton.”
http://www.stopthetraffik.org/coordinator/11/Carolyn%20Kitto/campaign/24
Hope that helps!
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Jules August 16, 2012
@Sharon – I would argue the comments are very relevant. This article is flawed at best, it states “So while you may not like Target’s fashion sensibilities, they are at least taking a stand on this important issue.” Target Australia are not taking a stand on the issue of Uzbec cotton. The article took a long leap from the controversial issue regarding Target’s fashion offering and linked it to the use of Uzbec cotton by fashion retailers. The link was tenuous at best. We live in a complex world and complex issues like child labour and the income it brings for the developing world are not easily resolved – what should come first, being able to feed a child or educate one? I don’t have the answers, but if I am going to educate myself to better understand an issue then I would hope the information presented is factually correct.
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Sharon Ellam August 16, 2012
Agreed Jules, the comments are relevant. But relevant to which argument? Yes, this article takes a long leap from the current controversy. When most fashion we buy at Target or other chains is made in India or other 3rd world countries, the statements made in relation to the Uzbec cotton situation is lip-service, in my opinion. How do we know where the fabrics & materials are sourced from? We don’t. What do we know about the construction of garments in, say, India? That they are made at the expense of individuals. What do we know about the effect of this industry on Aussie farmers? It makes their life harder. Are the choices made for what is offered in large chains occurring in Uzbekistan or India? No. The relevance of this article to this week’s controversy is blurry at best.
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Rhoda August 16, 2012
Never knew but Uzbekistan is the second largest exporter of cotton in the world. Has huge environmental problems as a consequence which has kickstarted an ecological movement there. They are apparently trying to diversify out of cotton but meanwhile the government ensures the cotton is harvested by closing schools as well as hospitals and other public sector services for 3 months of the year – an exercise in mass mobilization of the workforce into the cotton fields.
So it seems that it’s not a case of familes being so poor they rely on their children bringing home money so they can eat.
I have always supported Oxfam’s efforts of helping people living in poverty to help themselves but what is going on in Uzbekistan seems to something altogether different.
I think I will sign the petition.
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susan August 17, 2012
I too balk at the cheapness of some chainstores but how can I tell if the more expensive garment I purchase doesn’t just have a lot more profit for the retailer attached to it?
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Caroline August 17, 2012
Two ways to avoid slave labour in clothing manufacture: find out where the fabric is manufactured, and make your own clothes.
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Jill August 17, 2012
Ladies, this is the world to-day. Not just cheap clothes – cheap everything – manufactured overseas by exploited workers. Have you looked in K-Mart at the cheap electrical appliances- kettles, vacuums, microwaves and many more, all at ridiculous prices? Fridges, washing machines etc from the large retailers are mostly all made in China – are their workers paid top dollar? Furniture too.
While I most definitely share in your concern about the children above and every little bit of boycotting helps I despair about our desire to fill our homes and clothe ourselves at the expense of others. -
Deb bacon August 19, 2012
A fantastic book on this topic is Lucy Siegles ” To Die For; Is Fashion Wearing Out The World” it really made me evaluate how and where I bought clothes. Great on Hoopla for raising this important issue
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Carolyn Kitto August 19, 2012
We agree we should be able to know the labour conditions which contribute to the products we buy in Australia. That is why we are asking for a Slavery Free Guarantee http://www.stopthetraffik.org/australia/campaign/26
stopthetraffik.org/australia
