WILL YOU PAY FOR ‘PIGNESS’?
In a number of recent discussions amongst farmers and with non-farmers, there has seemed to be an impasse.

It goes something like this:
Non-farmer: “How can you treat animals that way?”
Farmer: “We love our animals, you’re just being misled by activists showing you worst practice.”
Non-farmer: “I just want you to be kind to the animals while you raise them, and to kill them with as little stress as possible.” [Many vegans snort at this point, though not all.]
Farmer: “We treat our cows/sheep/etc better than our children! They’re pampered! We love them!”
Non-farmer: “But you handle them roughly and slaughter bobby calves young after starving them!”
Farmer: “What do you want us to do with all the bobby calves? We can’t afford to raise them all. But we send them to a nearby abattoir to minimise stress and time off feed…”
Non-farmer: “But the poor calves!”
Non-farmer then, in most cases, goes and purchases milk from Coles or Woolworths at $1 per litre for private label, or slightly more for ‘branded’ milk. They also consume meat and dairy daily, yet don’t want their meat to come from intensively-raised animals.
Who’s right here? And what’s at stake?
To get to the heart of the matter, I asked a very simple question on the twitterz yesterday (Nov 29):
Non-farmy (meat-eating) types – what do you want from farmers in the raising of the animals you want to eat? Be specific!
Here were the replies:
@trib: animals get more open space than legislated, only necessary drugs, healthy, natural food, capacity to behave naturally, eg herding
@FreeHugsTommy: I want the animals to be living a life as close as possible to the one they would live if they weren’t being farmed.
@hadrian33: Happy animals (allowed to roam and eat what they like best) As stress-less a death as possible
@andrewfaith: Organic, free range, humanely treated. Treat them the way we would like to be treated – with care and respect.
@katgallow: For animals 2 have chance of self-expression. Eg pigs root around, wallow etc as expressn of ‘pighood’
@drnaomi: I would like food animals to have good living conditions, good natural food and to not be traumatized by transport and slaughter.
@th3littleredhen: the best possible quality of life (& death) before it becomes food.
@graceonline: Truly pasture-raised, pasture-fed; no feed or plants with GMO or animal parts or slurry; respectful butchering; clean;
@abbystorey: to know where & how animals are raised. Sounds obvious but pics of happy farmyards & slippery terms like freerange are misleading.
@stillmansays: want cows raised in deep pasture w cow/calf herds & slaughter in pasture to allow cows opp to grieve & re-form herd dynamics
@EmpiricalBaker: reasonable prices, animals raised outdoors in nature, open communication with farmers
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32 Responses to this article
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Melita December 1, 2011
A great piece, Tammi, thank you. And I’m with Charlotte – I was a vegetarian (my husband still is) but my kids love meat and I sometimes eat it with them. I always try to buy free range, but have found this difficult sometimes. Thanks for the tips about suppliers, Charlotte. I agree that eating less meat and caring more about where it is from is something that should be promoted. Geoffrey Bloom, who taught the first animal law course in Australia (he is also vegetarian) has a great point of view on all this: http://bit.ly/tKIimN
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Jillian U December 1, 2011
The reason I became vegetarian recently is because I could not disconnect the life of the animal with the meat on my plate. I would like to see a push for stronger labeling requirements and checks and I think we are heading that way slowly but surely.
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MrsP2011 December 1, 2011
I’m with Jillian U. As I become more and more interested and involved in animal welfare I am finding it harder and harder to disconnect my love of animals from what I am cooking and putting on my plate. Until the program McLeod’s Daughters began airing in re-run on digital tv lately, I had never watched the show. I am now addicted to it and watch it thinking “what a great life”. The same with “Keeping Up With The Joneses”. I think I could take to that lifestyle. Not really, who am I kidding, it’s a romantic notion. The reality is, as I watch cattle and sheep being herded into trucks to be sent off who knows where as food, I have a reality check. I would be a terrible farmer financially if the livelihood of that farm depended on the sale of animals for food. I would never be able to part with any of the animals. I thought perhaps I could cope with a dairy farm but before reading this I was unaware that not all cows on a dairy live out their lives there. That has shocked me. A dairy farm where all the cows live happily grazing on green grass and the only worry they have is parting with a couple of litres of milk each day. A sheep farm where the only thing the sheep had to worry about was having their coats shorn, otherwise they too would happily graze away. A chicken farm where the only thing the chooks had to worry about was laying eggs. A pig farm where all the pigs would be cuddly, funny pets, just like in Babe. And how would I cope if one of the horses fell and broke its leg or got a tumour on the brain as the horse in McLeod’s Daughters had yesterday and had to be put down. I know I wouldn’t be able to do it. As I said, I would be a terrible farmer. One of my sons still lives at home but this week he has been away for work so I have been eating mostly steamed vegies, fruit and yoghurt with a slice of ham on my sandwich for lunch. I didn’t need to have the ham on the sandwich either, peanut butter would have sufficed. I must say I do feel better for it although I do like sausages and a nice piece of fillet steak. I’ve done the steamed vegies etc before. I may have to start doing it again. And finally, as I watch all those wonderful shows about animals in the wild and see lions kill other animals for food, I often think “why can’t all the animals in the world be vegetarian as well?” I know, a simplistic look at life. If only.
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Annette Piper December 1, 2011
Going to be jumped on for this – but guys, get real. Go and visit and farm and see how things happen. Sorry, but the comments like “slaughter in pasture” have no basis in a farming business in this country – even if the government allowed it.
We raise grass fed beef. As I write this 200 odd cows and calves and a few bulls are milling around my back fence munching away happily with the occasional moo.
We breed our own cattle and they go out into a fresh paddock every few days, socialise, mind each other’s kids and make babies when the bull is around, have babies and they’re not weaned till its time to have another one almost a year later. Chemicals are minimised in the paddocks and no growth hormones used. Water is fresh and plentiful and thanks to recent weather, so is the grass.
We jump through hoops with EU accreditation and government requirements. Each animal has to be tagged and when they go to the saleyards or to the abbatoir that tag in in place as well as the mandatory paperwork. Of course we pay extra for the tags, and the paperwork and the scanning of the tags at the saleyards etc.
Animals destined for the saleyards are put under the least amount of stress possible – being sorted the day before and transported at the last possible moment so that they aren’t off feed/water for longer than necessary.
We worry about and care for any animal that isn’t well, if the worst happens and we end up with poddy calves we feed them multiple times a day and it becomes impossible to go into town for a day… because someone has to feed the calf.
We may have a nice view out our window but we don’t have access to a variety of shops, we’re fortunate if we have a doctor within 100km and educational options for our kids are severely restricted. Let alone the opportunity to go for a coffee, visit a gallery or go out for dinner.
Yet for all our care and worry and the hurdles imposed on us, we are only one part of the chain. We are getting paid less for our beef (and not even in “real” terms) than we were a decade ago. Yet the price of beef has gone up. Who’s making the money? Certainly not the farmers – yet we’re the ones who get blamed for everything. How about looking at the middlemen, the abbatoirs, the retailers and getting stuck into them for a change?
And for all those who want us to change our ways… give it a go and see if its viable or even doable! I think you’ll find yourselves tired, stressed out and broke in an amazingly short period of time. What will happen to your animals then?
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mp December 1, 2011
Wow, I thought I was on the mamamia site for a second there- you couldn’t help but take a swipe at the Catholic Church (the current Pope-btw- has said that people having dominion over animals is no reason to treat them inhumanely.But that’s beside the point). This sanctimonious article does nothing but give people a false sense of feeling good because they ‘want’ animals to have a good life, but in reality it’s the consumers who enable bad practice with their buying habits.
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Jackie December 1, 2011
I hand raised 14 calves from 1 day old and did a good job considering I romantically thought of myself as “Molly” from Country Practice…I even learnt how to pull calves that were stuck, cried tears for a cow I lost in calfbirth and gained the reputation around here as the cow whisperer. I sold them to be foundation stock (they lived) when we ran out of water.
Do I eat meat, yes I do, I never planned to eat any of the calves I raised. We have a great wholesale butcher near us so I buy from there. It supports my local community.
There is no easy answer for this. Where do we stop our concern for animal welfare? Where is the line drawn?
Bottom line these animals are born to die. They are domesticated by humans for that express purpose. Most won’t like that point of view but it IS a fact of life. Then again maybe we can cut down more rainforests so we can plant more vegetables etc. That would work.
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Lori December 1, 2011
But think that’s the point Jackie – we do draw a line. Not everyone draws it in the same place, but we all do what we are comfortable with. I don’t eat but some shellfish and the occasional wild caught fish, and that only after health problems raised the issue of my needing some animal nutrients in my otherwise vegetarian diet. And I agree that properly managed grass fed animals can convert less “valuable’ pasturage into food, whereas growing vegetables requires more limited ‘premium’ soils and/or huge amounts of fertilizers, etc. The problem for me is that all of this is not even a small part of our national conversation about food. Agribusiness doesn’t want us to know, or care, about where our food comes from. And we’re on a race to the bottom because of that. Australia has been spared commodity corn and all the harm that has come from that in the US (feed lots, degraded soils, the explosion of agribusiness, farmers legally unable to ask consumers to pay more for premium practices and products). Because we haven’t gone down that road, we actually have an auspicious opportunity to take a step back and look at what we are doing, and where we are going. No matter where you stand on the issues, let’s at least agree that we should grab on with both hands of this little bit of luck.
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Andrew Faith December 1, 2011
I was one of the ones that responsed to Tammi via Twitter when she asked for thoughts. I stand by them and what Tammi has written.
Does anyone remember when we used to buy fruit and veg from the green grocer, meat from the butcher, sandwich fillings from the continental deli and only really tinned or packaged goods from the supermarket? I still do that. I have a great green grocer who is usually cheaper than the supermarket and certainly much better quality. Meat is from a local butcher who makes his own snags – no bread, rusk or min 25% meat, it’s ALL meat, smokes hams on the premises instead of injecting them with chemical smoke flavour like the supermarkets. All the beef, lamb and pork is sourced from within the Central West (I live in the Blue Mountains). Yes, it costs more, but we buy less as it tastes what it’s supposed to taste like and is tender like nothing from the supermarkets. As for milk, I buy it from our food co-op. Yes, it costs more again, but wow, it’s creamy and reminds me of the silver top (and occasionally gold top) milk that we had delivered every couple of days growing up.
The big thing is, don’t accept mediocre – that’s exactly what the supermarkets are selling. Visit your local butcher and green grocer and give them a try. There’s certain to be one close by. Or try a farmers market – they’re everywhere nowadays.
Just don’t give in to the cheap and mediocre because it’s easy.
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Jenny E. December 1, 2011
Jenny Esots Many thanks for the profile on the rights of animals to a ‘happy life’ and the vexing issue of animal cruelty.
I say vexing because I realise there is a consensus to disconnect from what we are eating and drinking from where it really comes from.
As a recent convert to vegetarianism I made the decision I could no longer make that disconnect.
Animals have rights and our community will be judged on how its treats those who cannot speak for themselves.
Cruelty condoned such as live export and inhumane treatment of bobby calves is one of those inconvenient truths.
This will be an election issue.
Interestingly I heard talk by futurist Ray Kurzweil on Radio National about a meatless form of meat.
Let us be open to what a cruelty free future holds. -
The Food Sage December 1, 2011
Thanks, Tammi. That was a kick up the arse a lot of us need … and a reminder to be more organised at the weekend so i don’t resort to buying a chook at the supermarket like i did last weekend. i try to be ethical – and we eat less meat in our house because of it – but i have to admit convenience often gets the better of me. Like Charlotte, i too like Jonathan Safran Foer’s approach & respect of those who do at least try to be more conscientious consumers of meat. The only setback of with that philosophy is that some of us – i’d raise my hand but i’m typing with one and cuddling a cat with another – use it as an excuse to be lazy when it suits us. ‘At least i try much of the time’ i said to myself in the checkout queue last week with my chook in hand and several packs of chicken pieces! I’d forgotten about my excuses to self until i read your piece, Tammi. Thanks for the prod. Farmer’s market for me in the morning! There goes the lie-in.
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Susan December 2, 2011
I am sorry but at the end of the day when the person has only $50 for their grocery bill each week they will NOT pay extra. They will buy the cheapest and the supermarkets know this very well.
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Carly Findlay December 4, 2011
After watching the cows on Four Corners earlier this year, I made a decision to only buy ethical meat. Organic, free range. I get mine from farmers markets, or at worst, RSPCA meat at supermarkets. My parents also raise sheep so they give me a heap when the mobile butcher kills them. I know how my parents raise the sheep – with food, water, shade in a wide open paddock.
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Milk Maid Marian December 5, 2011
I’m the dairy farmer who asked Tammi to write this article for my blog because I think there’s becoming a real disconnect between farmers and other Aussies.
It’s disappointing that, judging by some of the comments here, it’s perceived that mainstream farming is not ethical. Australia’s free-range cows do lead long, healthy lives free from the stresses associated with predators, ill-health and the “inhumane” deaths dished out by mother nature.
It’s a sad fact that everyone and everything has to die sometime. It’s a farmer’s job to make sure that for our animals, life is pleasant and that death is as humane as we can make it.
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Tammi Jonas December 6, 2011
Thanks everyone for joining in this important discussion (and my apologies for a slow reply as I’ve been at a series of conferences for the past week). I’ll take the key points that deserve much further attention – Marian’s point that there are a lot of misconceptions about many of Australia’s farmers’ practices and Susan’s point about the cost of ethically farmed meat.
Marian is right, of course – Australian farms are for the most part not the stuff of Food Inc. This is especially the case for beef & dairy cattle and sheep. Pigs and poultry are not so lucky, sadly, and we should definitely shine a light (as many have been) on animal welfare in those intensive farms. Abattoirs need to come under greater scrutiny as well, though again it’s important to recognise the greater transparency and humane practices of many of them in more recent years. The loss of small, local abattoirs is a particular concern, as it has a significant impact on small producers regionally and their capacity to ensure their animals’ lives end under the highest possible welfare conditions. The transporters of livestock are another piece of the puzzle that is often overlooked.
As for Susan’s point – we can’t pretend that everyone can afford to buy more expensive meat and dairy, though if there was a radical change in diet as per my suggestions in the article perhaps everyone actually could. Education is a serious issue – far too many consumers have quite a rudimentary understanding of their options, whether while shopping or cooking. And further to that, our consumer society seems to value the newest fashion, a big-screen tv or the latest kitchen gadget over food, a devastating trend of the 20th century I’d love to see reversed.
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Sam December 6, 2011
Thanks for this article Tammi. It orients the debate nicely. My (perhaps predictable) criticism is that your approach seems to attribute an unrealistic level of agency to consumers. I always feel that calls for consumers to “make more informed choices” (not quoting anyone in particular) are somewhat futile, given the complexity of the actual (non-economic) forces that govern purchasing decisions. As I’m sure you’re aware, most people have a tendency to overestimate the effect of so-called “rational” deliberations on our own decisions as well as those of others, and I am concerned that framing the ethical farming problem as one of cost vs. quality/ethicality might be oversimplifying consumers’ decision-making processes to an unhelpful degree.
An alternative approach would be to abstract from our capitalist present and ask “what are the conditions under which I would be happy for animals to be farmed?” and “what level of access to meat products do I think is appropriate”, and then advocate an economic system that you think would further these objectives (as well as whatever other objectives you might have). In other words, the cost vs. quality/ethicality dichotomy seems to treat our current economic system as immutable and levels of access/quality/ethicality as flexible, rather than the other way around.
On a slightly tangential note, I am generally sceptical of notions such as “pigness” or “cowness”. Specifically, the socially-constructed nature of such concepts makes me wonder about the ways in which they might actually be consolidating the power of those who employ them, in much the same way that I generally take any attempt to articulate an “essence of humanity” or “human condition” or “human nature” as an attempt to constitute or consolidate a specific power relation.
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Milk Maid Marian December 6, 2011
Goodness, Sam! Are you suggesting a socialist system that allocates “desirable” levels of access to food?
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Tammi Jonas December 7, 2011
Oh, Sam, this is wonderful, thank you! However, I do think that while relying on the tired dichotomy of ‘cost v quality/ethics’ is perhaps not the most helpful way forward, it is more likely to gain traction in mainstream debate than advocating a more sustainable and equitable economic system than the current one. Having said that, I do agree that the most productive approach is to first ask the conditions under which we’re happy for animals to be kept, and to ask that question in the full cognisance of the need to reduce meat consumption amongst the Global North (while allowing the Global South to increase theirs, but not to the levels that got us into this mess, and how to do this without the inevitable colonial arrogance?).
As for the ‘pigness’ question – while the danger is that one anthropomorphises animals in ‘seeking their essence’ – I really like this discursive move as it disrupts the current industrial ag script whereby animals/living creatures are merely ‘stock’, ‘supply’, and part of a ‘chain’ – they are ‘processed’ rather than ‘slaughtered’, etc. It is only by valuing their lives as just that – life – that we can reclaim a (contingent) animal rights discourse in the raising, slaughtering and eating of farm animals.
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Annette Piper December 7, 2011
I see many complaints on the prices people pay – farmers are as a rule price takers and not price makers. We are currently getting around $1.40kg for our grassfed beef. Does that sound anything like the prices you are paying the butcher, supermarket etc. I think not.
If farmers were getting paid $10.00kg there wouldn’t be the push for high volume farming of animals.
So, boycott the supermarket. Complain about the prices to the butcher. But I doubt they’ll care.















